Identifying the Causes of the Spandex Breakage of Woven Garments and its Solutions

Research Article

Adv Res Text Eng. 2020; 5(1): 1042.

Identifying the Causes of the Spandex Breakage of Woven Garments and its Solutions

Shariful Islam1*, Mahbubul Haque2, Arifuzzaman3, Shaharia Ahmed4, Babul Sarker5 and Mosharof Hossain6

1Department of Textile Engineering, City University, Bangladesh

2Department of Textile Engineering, Daffodil International University, Bangladesh

3Department of Textile Engineering, City University, Bangladesh

4SGS Bangladesh Limited, Bangladesh

5Department of Apparel Manufacturing Technology, Institute of Science, Trade and Technology, Bangladesh

6Department of Textile and GDPM Technology, Saic Institute of Management and Technology, Bangladesh

*Corresponding author: Shariful Islam,Department of Textile Engineering, Faculty of Science and Engineering, City University, Dhaka, Bangladesh, Email: sharifultextiles@gmail.com

Received: August 01, 2019; Accepted: January 01, 2020; Published: January 07, 2020

Abstract

The aim of this research is to investigate the causes of the spandex breakage of woven garments while manufacturing and to find out their solutions.97% of cotton and 3% of spandex woven fabrics were used for making the woven garments. Woven garments of different stages like non-wash garments, garments with spandex breakage and garments without spandex breakage were used in this research for experiment. Performances of the elasticity of the spandex and its content were assessed using IR (Infrared Radiation) spectroscopy with the facilities of the FTIR (Fourier Transform Infrared) instrument in agreement with ASTM E168 Standard. Diffusion of infrared radiation delineates the elastic performances and its content on the garments with the standard specified in ASTM E168.Spandex portion of the denim garments has a tendency to go inside just after cutting since in this stage yarns do not have any tension. Sewing needle cut the yarns during stitching. The more the stitch per inch is, the more the spandex breakage is. Temperature of the needle increases while stitching and this increased temperature spoils the spandex portion by melting inside it. Higher temperature from dyeing bath spoils the spandex portion of the woven garments. Insufficient sewing allowance, incorrect sewing needle, improper machine tension, scrapping on garments, access temperature all the things were the cause of the spandex damage of the elastic garments.Using of special ball point needle, using of rotary knife while cutting, avoidance of using hot gun, avoiding chlorine bleach and stone wash, using of low temperature ironing, using of dummy while scrapping and all other steps mentioned in the research can be applied practically to overcome spandex breakage of garments.Due to having poor facilities of the testing laboratories only a few experiments with FTIR test were carried out in this research.This research is practiced based and the findings can be beneficial to the personnel involved in the textile industries who are responsible for the manufacture of spandex garments and to control of their properties. This research opened possible ways for the scholar to further study in this field.

Keywords: Spandex breakage; Elasticity; Breaking point; IR radiation; Elastic performances

Introduction

Different scholars worked related to these experiments at different times where literature review exposed different results. Some of which were similar and some of them were widely dissimilar. Due to the range of variables involved if one parameter was changed then the other property of the fabrics were changed. Shariful, et al. experimented on spandex fabric and found that, temperature enhanced the elastic performances of cotton spandex woven fabrics [1].

Shariful, et al. experimented on cotton spandex woven fabrics and proved that, the strength of cotton spandex woven fabrics can be optimized by suitable heat setting temperature. Strength of cotton spandex woven fabrics can be increased with the increased of temperature. But over heat could spoil the strength properties of cotton spandex woven fabrics [2].

Shariful, et al. experimented the shrinkage properties of cotton spandex woven fabrics. They proved that, shrinkage properties of cotton spandex woven fabrics can be controlled with proper heat setting temperature [3].

Halim, et al. experimented that elastic clasps for handbags, suspenders, boots and leggings can be improved with proper heat setting temperature. This procedure of fashioning has the primary elastic components that can improve the minimum level that required. They designed the masticator as a technique to support marmalade elastic [4].

Chen, et al. reported that the elasticity and strength of spandex has been combined into a extensive variety of clothes, particularly in skin-tight wears. An advantage of spandex is its momentous strength and elasticity and its capability to coming back to the inventive figure afterward extending and earlier dehydrating than commonplace cloths. For fashion, spandex is typically assorted with cotton or polyester, and accounts for a minor proportion of the concluding fabric, which therefore holds greatest of the appearance and sensation of the additional fibers [5].

Hou, et al. reported in the mid of 1970s and found at the appearance of the Ladies’ Freedom Movement. Girdles came to be allied with anti-independence and representative of an era that was rapidly transient away. DuPont was not prepared to wildness a marketplace that they were knowingly dependent on. In reply, DuPont re imagined spandex as the aerobic suitability drive arisen in the 1970s [6].

Carosio, et al. was attentive in evolving an artificial elastic fiber in the 1930s, which was completed in 1959. Spandex’s transformative characteristics were permissible to integrate into other clothes in addition girdles and undergarments. They flung a wideranging persuasive movement for its spandex brand, enchanting announcements and full-page ads in highest ladies’ periodicals for example Harper Bazaar. Fashion’s unique chic image, Audrey Hepburn aided shoot the product on and off-screen in the late 50’s; reproductions and performer like Joan Collins and Anne- Margret monitored Hip burns artistic by posturing in spandex fashion for photograph discharges and periodical insurances [7].

Atakan, et al. experimented that the spandex pre polymer is additionally responded with an equivalent quantity of di-amine. This response is recognized as manacle allowance response. The subsequent explanation is dilute with a in credit to yield the revolving explanation. The solvent assistances to mark the solution diluter and additional effortlessly fingered afterwards it can be driven into the spandex clothing manufacture compartment [8].

Lie, et al. explained that cotton fabric is made with short stable fiber which produces in shells on the cotton plant. Cotton is grownup in heartfelt temperatures, mainly in the southern US, China and India. Cotton with spandex can make the elastic garments that can provide comfort and warmth. These cloths are also durable and can be long lasting [9].

Zhang, et al. experimented that the foremost constituent of ladies’ full-length along with panty hose is strand nylon, with around 20% spandex supplementary for elastic performances. Ladies garments mainly classifies hosiery comprising spandex into 2 clusters that comprising up to 18% spandex in pure hosiery for fitting and luxury, and other is containing 19% and better for rheostat. In woven fabrics, the spandex-containing in the straightway provides stretch and recovery parallel everywhere the wearers physique or limb [10].

Nourbakhsh, et al. experimented that spandex is used in fabrics battered at clothing like shirting and bottoms both for ladies and men’s. The spandex quantity of the entire fabric is 2 to 5 percent is sufficient to offer suitability and comfort. Bare spandex is applied in circular knits by platting a filament of spandex with an edge of the main yarn over the similar needle. Wrapping is the casing scheme of choice, but expertise enhancements are probable to aid core-spinning substitute wrapping in past few years [11].

Novák, et al. reported that swimwear fabrics comprise a developed percentage of spandex than extra groups excluding control garments. At maximum cases, nylon with its attraction for high colors is the mate fiber that weights spandex confrontation to chlorine. Fibers absent to these belongings are prohibited from long-term opposition and upgrading in this distinguishing serious of producers list [12].

Sahu, et al. reported that elastic fabric got huge fame in 1980s in a variety of fashion items, commencement with biking shorts. Garments manufacturing units were using spandex and spandex blends in tights, bodysuits cloths both for men and women. Ladies jagging’s also got extensive popularity at that time [13].

Almetwally, et al. reported that spandex is known by its trade name that is Lycra in 1959 by DuPont Company. Lycra is a fiber that DuPont investigators established as an substitute to the latex-based rubber used for women’s wear. Lycra was a massive upgrading over latex because it could be stretched up to six hundred times than its original shape [14].

Chen, et al. reported that French Olympic ski team sported elastic cloths in 1968s. They proved that elastic cloths can be best suited for sportswear like biking, skiing, swim wear etc. in the mid-1990s elastic cloths were very popular for its flexibility, warmth, fittings and relaxing ability [15].

Zhan, et al reported that spandex industry was very popular in the mid 1987s. At those decades’ athletes, swimmer, sports men, bodybuilder all used elastic cloths for showing their performances. In the 1999 spandex industries start growing very fast [16].

Cai, et al. reported that the unique elastic characteristics of the spandex are a direct result of its chemical content. This fiber is made up of numerous polymer bonds. This spandex is made up of two main parts. One is rigid segment and another is flexible section. Rigid one is responsible for increasing strength but flexible is responsible for giving elastic performances [17].

Sarpkaya, et al. reported that spandex has crystalline and amorphous interior section. Most of the parts are amorphous. This amorphous part can be crystalline with appropriate heat setting temperature. Heat in the spandex gives permanent structure to the fibers containing spandex [18].

Masteikaite, et al. reported that if the fiber is stretched to its supreme length, the rigid sections bond with each other. The nebulous units persist in an extended form. It made the fibers hard and rigid. When the power is detached the amorphous sections retreat and the fiber revenues to its relaxed state. By using the elastic characteristics stretched cloths are produced [19].

Yan, et al. reported that the prime use for spandex fibers is in cloths. They are beneficial for a number of causes. Major, they are overextended constantly, and will coming virtually back to unique magnitude and figure. Additionally, they are inconsequential, easy, and plane. Furthermore, they are simply colored. They are strong as they are resilient to scratch and the poisonous characteristics of body perspiration, and detergents. They are well-matched with other resources, and can be rolled with other kinds of fibers to create sole fabrics, which have physiognomies of both fibers [20].

Materials and Methods

Materials

Woven garments made up of cotton spandex woven fabrics were used in this research for doing the required experiments as mentioned in (Table 1). Woven garments of 96% Cotton and 4% Spandex were used in this research. Non-wash woven pant, accepted pant by quality control department and rejected pant by quality control department were used in this research. (Table1) the sample used in this research and for conducting the experiments (Table 1).

In Table 1, for the given construction in serial no A, 10× (12+70D)/90×70 show a construction of a cotton spandex woven fabric. Cotton and spandex percentage is 96% Cotton 4% Spandex. 4% spandex is inserted in weft way to provide elasticity. Here, warp yarn count is 10 which is a non-stretched yarn made up of cotton polyester blend, but weft yarn count is (12+70D) that means, spandex of 70 denier is used with the core of 20 count in weft way to make it stretched yarn. Thread density in ends per inch is 90 and picks per inch is 70. Two other constructions in serial no B and C show the same characteristics. It is clear that percentage of spandex content depends on the value of Denier. The more the denier value is, the more the percentage of spandex content is.

Methods

FTIR can create an infrared spectral scan of samples that refract Infrared Light (IR) in accordance with ASTM E168 standard. The absorbency of the sample’s of infrared light at different frequencies creates a distinctive “spectral fingerprint” on the basis of the frequencies that the samples absorbs infrared light and the greatness of those immersions. The resultant spectral scan is generally definite to a universal class of samples. Transmittance of infrared radiation defines the elastic performances and its content on the garments with the standard specified in ASTM E168.

Equipment used in this research

Measurement tape: A metal measuring tape was used in this research to measure the width of the fabric. It is made up of plastic rubber with millimeter, centimeter and inch scale to measure the substances. It is a common measuring tool and it is designed to measure any substance easily. Figure 1 shows a measurement tape (Figure 1).